Osteria Il Governo 1801: Where History Meets Great Food in Lake Como

For food and history lovers, Osteria Il Governo 1801 in Lezzeno is a must visit while you are in Lake Como. A short drive from Bellagio, this historic gem is one of the oldest restaurants in the area and offers an authentic taste of Italian tradition.

Osteria Il Governo 1801 has been around for centuries — literally. It first opened its doors in the early 19th century and has been run by the same family for seven generations. In 2019, the current owner, Pietro, gave the restaurant a thoughtful renovation, restoring its historic charm while ensuring it’s ready for modern diners. This isn’t just a place to eat; it’s a window into the past of the region.

We asked Pietro to tell us about what it’s like to run somewhere with so much history and all the responsibility that comes with this. 

He tells us that “Il Governo” is a place that should have ceased to exist centuries ago, yet miraculously and mysteriously it persists in welcoming and hosting travelers from all over the world, just as it did in its origins.

Armenians, Illyrians, Thracians, Huns, Franks, Heruli, Persians, and Greeks, Lombards and Goths, Italics and Britons once took their places at its tables by the fire, and rested in the small or large guest rooms of this Roman inn. They have since been succeeded by American and Russian, Australian and Indonesian, European and Asian guests.

The “secret” of Il Governo lies in the humble awareness that the “government of time and history” is not in human hands. Pietro, Silvia, and their family are merely the “custodians” of a tradition of hospitality, and more importantly, of culture—a tradition that fate decreed would outlive the fall of the last Roman fortress during the barbarian invasions.

Even after the fortress was handed over to the Lombards, the “duty” to offer a warm meal and shelter to the pilgrims of life was never abandoned. For centuries, travelers moving up and down the lake from northern to southern Europe could always find a safe haven and the warmth of hospitality reminiscent of another era. The walls of Il Governo are imbued with the love and care poured into them by the souls who lived within, who extended this warmth to all who entered. They are the true, tangible secret that has fascinated guests since 1801, when Pietro’s family took over its stewardship.

They feel the weight of responsibility for at least 50 generations of innkeepers and hosts who came before them, and for this reason, they pour all of themselves into every dish. Their menu aims to pay homage to their predecessors, and two of its iconic dishes reflect this mission:

The Pasta Unità d’Italia (Unity of Italy Pasta) is dedicated to their carbonari forebears who sparked the Risorgimento, featuring Bronte pistachio pesto and Piacenza coppa from the Chiaravalle della Colomba abbey. In honor of Napoleon and Francesco Melzi d’Eril, they present their Canette Française—duck breast cooked at a low temperature, seared in its own fat, and served with sauces evoking the Byzantine Orient of our “Builders.”

This menu is a continuous archaeological and historical journey, enriched by a fusion of local ingredients with those of the first Armenian and Mediterranean innkeepers, and later, the French friends of the tumultuous years between 1801 and 1849. All of this is crafted in pursuit of balance and cosmopolitan harmony, reflecting the essence of our walls since their inception.

You cannot “serve” at Il Governo without a lump in your throat at the end of the day, as you close the door and garden, gazing out toward the dark, deserted expanse of Comacina Island and the Tower, now called the Tower of Aid, illuminated by red beacons. You step outside to see the stars again, and a prayer rises within you for the souls of all who fought and gave their lives here for that “freedom and civilization” that was once called Rome and centuries later, Italy.

For Pietro and his family, It is both an honor and a pleasure to welcome the world into these stones that exude the most epic and heroic history of our land—the history of Como and its indomitable lake.

• Address: Loc. Rozzo, 18, 22025 Lezzeno CO, Italy
• Opening Hours:
  • Monday: Closed
  • Tuesday to Sunday:
    • Lunch: 12:00 PM – 2:30 PM
    • Dinner: 7:00 PM – 10:00 PM

Reservations: Highly recommended. You can book via their website or call directly.