The Frog That Guards a Cathedral

Every cathedral hides a surprise. Milan has the Madonna of gold. Florence has the dome that defied gravity. Como… has a frog.

Walk to the north side of the Duomo and you come to the Porta della Rana, finished in 1507 by the Rodari brothers. The marble rises with saints and angels and vines, even mythological scenes that slip in from Ovid. Among this swirl of devotion and drama is a small detail. A frog clinging to the stone on the left jamb. Its head was destroyed in 1912 by an act of vandalism. The body is still there, polished by the hands of generations who wanted to test if the story was real.

The mystery has produced endless theories. One version insists the frog marks the high water of a flood long ago, a warning carved in marble. Another swears it is a symbol of rebirth, because frogs transform from water to land. A more practical tale says treasure was once buried near the portal and excavations in 1852 proved something was hidden there. None of it has ever been confirmed. All of it is repeated with a smile. That is the joy of the frog. It keeps Como talking.

The city needed its humour and its solidarity this autumn when the lake rose again. Rain forced the water into the centre. Cafés and shops were flooded. Families faced days of work to put homes back in order. The supporters of the Curva showed what community looks like. They were supposed to be at a Coppa Italia tie with Sassuolo. Instead they took up shovels and pumps to help neighbours. They still bought tickets because Como had pledged all proceeds to flood relief. Sassuolo added its own contribution. Football gave way to something more important and no one forgot who turned out when it mattered.

So the frog feels oddly at home in the story of today. A detail carved centuries ago that has survived vandals and storms. A reminder of water’s power over the city. And a witness to the way Como endures with patience, pride and sometimes a touch of mischief. Stand before the Porta della Rana, stretch your hand up to the polished stone, and remember that a small creature can carry a city’s memory. The bells ring over the square, the lake glitters nearby, and the frog waits quietly for the next chapter.

Visitor’s Note

How to Find the Frog
North side of Como Cathedral, Porta della Rana. Look at the left jamb and squint upwards.

When to Go
Early morning before the tourist groups arrive, or at dusk when the bells start and the square glows.

Other Stops Nearby
Piazza San Fedele for coffee. The lakefront for a walk.